17 posts in this topic

Ok, so I'm about to start making up my rigs for my OBX Sharking week. I have some 12/0-16/0 Circles I plan on using. I'm debating between Mailin 278# wire or 1/16" Nylon Coated cable. I can get 250' of the cable for less than $50 at Home depot. Thats alot of leader material if it works. The cable (pictured below) is green, at least thats what home depot is advertising on their site. I'm going to stop in tomorrow and pick up 20' or so ($0.27 a foot) and make up a couple with my crimps to see how they work. Does anyone think there will be an issue with the highly visible green cable? Or do you think it would just look like some grass on the bottom? Thoughts...what do you think.....

8f9630c1-2fd4-406a-a89f-8c8e2b37432a_400

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well from watching shark week on my DVR, I am going to say you can tie a bull rope to your bait and the sharks won't care. All those chunks they use to attract sharks to the boat are secured with thick rope and not one of the sharks seem to even notice let alone care about it.

I would say you are safe with the green wire.

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This is what you need Jeff. Make sure you get the crimps and the crimping pliers to go with it. Its what the pro's use.

Berkley-fishing Sevenstrand® Duratest® (49 strand cable) 30 FT. Spool

You don't want people laughing at you when they see that clothes line you are fishing with do ya..............?

Its also to stiff to fish with.

Let them laugh at me :) And the cable I was looking at isn't clothesline....Here's the description

Structural cable, which is made strong enough to use as hoist cables, by twisting together lengths of steel wire. Superior strength allows for multiple uses, such as guy wires, net suspension, animal leash and tether lines and winches.

  • 1/16 In. x 250 Ft.
  • Working Load Limit - 28 Lbs
  • Green Vinyl
  • Vinyl Coating Provides Added Protection
  • MFG Brand Name : Crown Bolt LLC
  • MFG Model # : 13030
  • MFG Part # : 13030

Its Flexible, I'll find out just how flexible tomorrow. I have crimps and crimpers already that should work. I'm only using this as a bite leader. I run about 4-6' of bite leader and then 10-15' of 400lb rub leader. I can assure you that the coated cable will be more flexible than a mailin wire leader. I'm going to experiment with the rigs. I am going to try and make a live bait rig (with a weight on the bottom so the live bait is floated near the surfIace) I also want to make some float rigs that will keep the bait from sitting directly on the bottom. I'm going to try and use cut pieces of a swimming noodle for that. I'm going to start working on all these tomorrow...I'll take my camera with me and take pictures of the progress. And don't worry, I'll test them all out in Corrolla in a few weeks.

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But, but Jeff?

You asked, see what'cha get?

LOL!!!

I'm up for saving a few bucks, give it a toss!

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LOL yeah....I know...I'm really hoping that I can make some good stuff. Heh, at least I'll have fun trying it out. :) And I've seen that seven strand before.....Just a little costly for my budget. If I had unlimited monies...I'd probably use it...but I'm gonna work with what I can get.

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28lbs working load...not sure you can beach one with that.

I'd pony up personally. Either with 250# single strand haywired, you only need 2-5' depending on preference, then crimp it to weedeater line to save cash in lieu of 400# rub mono.

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I suppose I could crimp some off between my suburban and dad's truck to see how strong it really is :) I read that 28# working strength too, but I can't believe it would fail at such a low weight.

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I missed the 28# part.....

Hmmm, maybe it's just due to liability/safety issues.

Yeah, stretch it out and see what you get.

Just be darned sure to keep anything that you don't want destroyed clear of the area. Including the rear window of the truck!!!

I've seen cable break, it ain't pretty....

Pieces of that nylon coating (and wire) might go flying too.

Just be careful Jeff..

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Just lay a small blanket on the cable before you pull test it and it will absorb most of the energy instead of it flying apart.

I am going to guess that your crimps will fail long before that cable will break!

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I wouldn't worry about that 28# load limit.... there is no way you could put enough strain on that cable with a rod and reel to break it. What I would do is crimp a piece of it and hook it to the hitch on your truck and I would be willing to bet that you would really have to lay into it to break it even then.... that would be the best way to test it.

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Well I bought the 250' spool for $48 today. It is very flexible and strong. Unfortunately my 2.3mm oval sleeves were too small. We ordered some 2.3mm Double Sleeves (I checked a chart thats what they recommend for 1/16" cable) I also ordered 25 20/0 Mustad Circles. I wanted the 16/0 but they were out of stock everywhere I called. I guess I'll try and pick some up when I'm at the beach. For floats I opted for the mini nerf football and basketball. I punched a hole in the middle and fed the cable through it. I'm wondering if any of those will come back chewed up at all. It should be interesting, and that should have enough float to keep me off the bottom. I also picked up 10' of 3/4" copper tubing to make weights. Everything is at dads house just waiting on the hooks and sleeves to be delivered.

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Jeff, will you be fishing from a boat? Sounds like it simply because of the floats (Hard to toss). Using a 3-way swivel with a weight attached or free-floating? What are you doing with the copper, 'splain that (I know weights, but)?

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I bought nylon coated down rigger cable for my shark rigs. Works great and wasn't expensive. Sold at BPS and elsewhere. I'd be willing to look into the Home Depot cable.

I'll be hunting sharks out of Avon, NC August 16th-23rd. I'll post some pictures. :director:

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Jeff, will you be fishing from a boat? Sounds like it simply because of the floats (Hard to toss). Using a 3-way swivel with a weight attached or free-floating? What are you doing with the copper, 'splain that (I know weights, but)?

No, I'll be yakking baits out so I'm not worried about throwing. Ok, so here's the deal.....copper tube its pretty simple....this link right here is the basic concept. although I don't go into as much detail...the heck with the extra copper for the end cap...Coat hangers work well instead of that heavy gauge copper wire.

TEXAS SHARK FISHING

Slasa.....you'll be leaving the day before I get down there!!!!! Save some sharks for me. I can't wait until I get there and hook into some monsters...maybe a bull, hammer, tiger....I know I'm hoping big...but i know it can happen down there!!!!!!!

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Ok, I saw those type weights last year (or so). Nice idea if you need a grappling hook to anchor the kayak out there.

Do you plan to have the weight snap off to retrieve the line?

(not a great idea with lead)

I wouldn't relish the thought of cranking in something like that to put new bait on after a pick-up.

I just use concrete. I use plastic water bottles and then peel off the plastic after curing. Here they are:

http://www.atlanticanglers.com/maryland-inshore-fishing-forum-pictures-reports-advice-techniques/817-cheap-charkey-weights.html

With concrete, you can use lighter line and let it snap off to retrieve. Won't hurt the environment.

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Jeff, I found this post:

I like it but need wire or cable trace ten min in the battle and a Bull or Tiger will bite through that in no time. If get hooked in the corner of mouth will work but when going for the big boys. They can swallow three feet of leader and a 18 inch trace of mono is worthless and you will lose a fish of a life time go a 10 foot or no less than 6 foot of trace and use cable . Or stanless i use galvnized plastic coated from Home Depot and is a lot less than stanless from a fishing store .you will need 8 leaders and a few extra lead for fishing slp lots of snags and boat trafic good luck .on the tourney only two rods can be used .

Located at:

TEXAS SHARK FISHING :: View topic - First Rig for the 9/0...

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Actually, when I fished with Ben the weekend after the 4th of july he explained the rig to me...and it makes perfect sense. With the prongs in the sand, you can get alot of tension on your mono. When something big enough to pull the prongs out of the sand comes by, all that tension in the mono releases and pulls the hook back, sliding the circle hook right into the corner of the mouth. This will be my first time trying the technique. I will have my typical 10-16oz pyramids with me to use if I don't notice any good luck with those weights. As far as cranking them back int....the coat hanger wire is flexible enough that even if it snags the bottom at first it should straighten out and be a peice of cake to reel in.

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