flame thrower

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About flame thrower

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  • Birthday 02/02/67
  1. Will check the corner of the garage this weekend give me you cell # and I will shoot a few pictures. I bought it as a temp replacement during a fishing weekend when Tyler snapped the tip off a other rod. I only used it that week. Jim
  2. blood worm I believe I do. Jim
  3. Ocean front last weekend: Lots of little blues from 6 inch to 14 Lots of king fish to 13 Spot black drum small trout small Ling Heard of one short striper
  4. Allen not sure your budget so here goes TICA GX SCEPTER $85 DAIWA EMCAST PLUS $80 EMCAST Sport $60 DAIWA EmblemĀ® Pro-A $135 SALTIGA SURF $400 SHIMANO PA ALBRID CI4 Type-Standard $300
  5. That system with a long cast spools and braid will equal my conventional setup and beat them in a head wind.
  6. Gentleman you can not High Stick high modules graphite composite rods, period. They will eventually break, not saying you did but i've seen guys fighting rays and big fish with the rods bent in half. Rule of thumb no more than 90 degrees and in a perfect world the rood should be at a 60 to 75 degree angle to the water. Unless you are using eglass or a combination of kevlar and graphite in which case bend them in a pretzel.Tica has very good customer service, call them at Tica USA 6952 South 220th St. Kent, WA. 98032 Tel: 253-872-2024 or 800-390-5268 Fax: 253-872-5293 Tica USA General questions customerservice@ticaamerica.com Warranty questions warranty@ticaamerica.com
  7. More of the same here crabs were so bad if you left the bait in longer then 5 minutes you came back with only the shell of a head. It was so bad at one point I went to big baits. Pretty much cut the bunker down the middle head half and tall half still over 5 minutes nothing left. Had one or two pull downs but my theory is the stripers were sucking up the crabs and missing the hooks. Water is still to warm we caught a blue crab that was huge. You know the crabs are bad when you cant even catch a skate. Jim
  8. Morty, Thanks I contact the Moods. It was a mute point as the entire rest of the house was swined up with the flu. Hopefully they are out of the tranmittal stage as I'm tried of sleeping in the basement on the couch. Good to see you guys again we ended up North with Tommy and Crystal. Nothing for us we stayed until about 8:30. I fished for almost 20hrs and not even a bump. Crabs are the worst I ever remember.
  9. Fished Sunday from 9 to 5 Stan caught 5 or so shorts to about 26 skunk for me. The NE storms have added quite a bit of structure to the beach. Hopefully it stays for a while.
  10. IInformation obtained from another site Making Surf Weights By JB Springer This section is about making your own Surf Spider Weights at home. I have found that this method is the easiest way to make weights using the least amount of tools. The reason I started making these weights initially was to keep me busy during the off season but I later realized that it was economical to make them my self. The individual cost per weight is around $.85 not including the cost of lead but I will give you a tip on getting lead for almost free. Caution: Be sure to inform yourself about the hazards of working with lead. Make sure that you are melting the lead outdoors in well ventilated areas to blow the fumes away. Start by cutting a 1/2 inch copper pipe 3 1/2 inches in length. Pipe cutters like the one shown here work perfect for this type of application. For the weight Eyelet and legs I use 8 or 10 guage copper wire. The 8 guage is thicker and has better holding power. Cut the wire into 2 1/2 inch sections for the eyelets and start to bend them with pliers or whatever you want, I used a drill bit. Then place the eyelet on a vise to mold it into a nice round shape. Now lets move on into the weight legs. Cut the wire into 12 inch sections then bend them in half. Then place them in the vise to get the final shape but be sure to keep a 1/8 of an inch gap between the wire as shown on the picture below. The next step is making the most important tool which is the end cap. I recommend that you make 2 or 3 of them while you are at it so that you will be set for a long time. Get a sharp pointy object or a punch and make 4 indentions so that the drill bit has a guide and create the hole where you want it. Once you have punched it start with a small drill bit and work your way up to the drill bit size that is the next smallest size of the wire's diameter. Since copper is a soft metal you can work the hole a little with a nail until you obtain a good tight fit for the wire. When you start to drill the holes it is better to place the end cap over the pipe section so that it doen't lose it's shape while in the vise. By now your inventory should look like this and ready to to put it together. Now run your wire sections through the end cap like the picture above. Notice how the 1/8 inch gap between the wire allows the wire to slide easily. Once you have done that leave about a 1/2 inch of wire sticking out of the end cap so that it will anchor better in the lead. Slip the coppper pipe into the end cap making sure that is goes in all the way and sitting flush before placing it on the vise. Turn on the torch and start melting the lead as shown above. It is easier to melt the lead in pan if you have the means of heating it in the outdoors and then just pour the liquid lead into to the weight. When you use the procedure shown here with the torch be sure to stop melting lead when the weight is half full and heat the base as shown below. While heating the base stand back because as you are melting some of the lead that cooled off before it reached the bottom may splash as it liquifies and settles. Leave about 3/16 of an inch unfilled and place the eyelet in the lead and hold it for about 30 seconds which is enough time for the lead to harden and hold the eyelet in place. Apply more heat if needed to align eyelet correctly. After the eyelet is held in place grab the weight with some pliers and dip it in water to cool. Proceed by placing the weight in the vise to remove the end cap. Open the vise up enough to allow the weight shaft to slide up and down but closed enough to stop the end cap from passing through. Remove the end cap completely and notice how uniform and clean the end cap leaves the weight. If you would have drilled a hole a little to big there would be a little lead run off on the legs. You can experiment a little by trying different lengths and diameters of pipe to give the desired weight. You can also vary the shape of the wire to increase holding strength. For those of you who use stealth traces, applying liquid electrical tape on the weight compliments it very well. A good source for lead is a wheel alignment shop. Most shops have buckets and buckets full of used wheel weights which make an excellent source for lead. It just requires you to melt it ahead of time into the desired shape and you are ready to go. I have found that the place I use for my wheel alignment gives them to me but I usually give them something in return in good faith.
  11. My buddy painted one Pink for a friend of ours daughter before wrapping it. Its been 2 or 3 years and still looks good. He had a auto shop do it and then they baked it at a low temp. After he put the guides on he put Rod Bond over the entire rod, this stops the paint from chipping. One word of advice to not paint the male spigot joint, put the rod together and mark where the joint ends. Then tape off about a 1/4 or 1/2 inch more to allow for the rod to finally fully seat itself as it breaks in. Jim
  12. Everyone we are picking up a bushel (flat) of bunker for a tournament in NJ this weekend if the boats get out today and will not need all of it. We would like to sell half the flat. If you are interested please call me at 484-326-9471 to arrange the pickup. Bunker will be in North Delaware.
  13. Coop can probably get the new one from my guy but the prices have gone way up. I'll try and call you tommorrow with price and delivery date.