eklutna

Members
  • Content count

    87
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About eklutna

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 06/09/60
  1. That is not a real shot. It is photo shop and a close look will show it to be true.
  2. I have two cape point specials I do not wrap them. I have never heard of the reel seat breaking. I have a Penn 113 LHW mounted on one of mine and a Penn 545 Mag-t on the other. I have two squidders that I can put on the rods when I want a lighter setup. I have a Penn 65 that is rigged for use on piers. I use the rod clamps supplied with the reels (none on the 65). My reels are not going anywhere. If you are going after any fish that weighs up to 100 pounds you should use a reel clamp or expect the reel seat to fail. I can cast 125 yards with my 545 and eight and bait. I like the Fuji Alconite guides. I like the LS-7 reel seat. I like the weight. The only negative aspect of the rod is that it scratches very easily. Over all I think the Cape Point Special rods are great
  3. Steve I am not talking about the three piece graphite setup you find on older Penn Reels. I am talking about the One piece Graphite setup that Penn offered starting in 2001. I have it on my 113HLW. It creates a much more ridged frame and is light weight and corrosion resistant. Penn basically made a Newell knockoff. If you look at the forces that are being put on the reel seat they are not that much. Drag is typically set at 25-33% of line strength. If you are using 50-80 pound line that is only 12-25 pounds of worst case force on the reel seat. Still, fighting a big shark is like bench pressing 25 pounds steady for a hour or more. You might give out before you reel stand. My 113 reel uses 30 pound line and I will only have 10 pound drag setting worst case. The 113 is designed for fish up to 100 pounds. Strong enough for the sharks I will find in the Gulf coast of Florida. If you are worried about the graphite reel seat (Really a Stainless steel stand riveted to Graphite frame section) you can get stronger reels. I am surprised you don't go for a 12/0 or 16/0 reel with the front and rear saddle clamps. According to the Penn catalog the 9/0 is only good for fish from 50 to 250 pounds. You would probably benefit from a 16/0 reel that is good for fish over 400 pounds. I have seen these reels sell for less than 1K on auction.
  4. The larger boats 3-5 foot could carry a motor the size of a weed eater and would have plenty of power to pull 200yds of line. But this is just idle thought from someone who has too much idle time at work.
  5. You could buy a 400 dollar kayak to yak out your bait, or you could use a Radio Controlled boat. It would be more versatile. This is what I was thinking about. I was trying to think of how to do this and come up with a good plan and design. This is just a diversion for a boring day at work. I think a off the shelf RC boat would be the cheapest way to go. The problem is hull choice for a boat that will have to be able to navigate four foot surf. The hull would have to be self righting while retaining the bait in worst case flip. The motor would have to be able to move the hull and the bait through the surf and carry a five pound load. The hull would also have to be able to deploy the bait, float and sinker. The boat would have to be visible in the dark of night. Jet drive would prevent lines from being cut. I have looked at hull from different RC boats. Only one type is self righting from the factory. Three foot long RC Sail boats have a weight one foot long on the keel. You can turn the boat upside down and it will right itself automaticly. If the compartments are sealed there will be no water intrusion. The mast would be retained but the sails and boom would be discarded. A light would be mounted on the mast for night use. I would also mount a ring so that the sail boat could be launched from a seawall or pier with a long gaff. For the bait deployment system I think a Piece of 3” wide by 14” long CPVC could be nested in the hull and sealed on one end. The bait, sinker and float would be placed in the tube and the other end covered with a hatch with a latch. I have thought of many bait deployment theories. I would try the simplest first. This would be a spring loaded cover that is radio controlled to open. Once the boat is 200yds off shore you open the hatch and with a sharp pull on the line you yank the payload out of the tube. The other way is the dump truck method. With this method you would hinge the tube near the stern of the boat and use a sail winch to unlock and lift the tube to 45 degrees. At this point the bait would fall out. I also thought of using a under hull method where the bait is nested in a hollow on the bottom outside of the hull. Then I remembered the six foot tarpon that was eaten by the twelve foot hammer head. Top deck is better. Keeping the cost down would be the hard part. However flea bay comes to the rescue. I could get a used hull and radio cheep. Then I would just have to upgrade the motor and drive train with a more powerful motor and battery. Then install lights and bait deployment system. It don’t cost a penny to theorize. If you have any suggestion let me know.
  6. What size shock leader and rub leader are you using and what kind of knot are you using. Are you lubing your knots. Be as specific as possable on the details of your rig.
  7. If you are going to yak your bait out get the 9/0. I would recommend getting a 2001 or later version. It is the one with the one piece graphite frame and aluminum spool. You want this one because it is not as likely to corrode. You should be able to get one for under one hundred dollars on flea bay.
  8. A short kayak is the way to go for the surf becouse you can turn the kayak fast. Put some rod holders on the yak and troll for stripers beyond the surf.
  9. nice Picts I wish I did not have to work this weekend. My new shark rod is in the storage rack collecting dust.
  10. Chark bait I have the tarpon 160 and WS lies on it capacity. 375 pounds is the point that the kayak sinks to the bottom. Trust me on this or get some bags of sand and fill the kayak with 375 pounds and find out for your self. I max the kayak out and I weigh 260 pounds and carry 20 pounds of gear. Every kayak manufacture lies about the weight capacity. Or they are misleading. Either way the printed information about the kayaks capacity is useless for a potential kayak buyer who wishes to make a informed decision when buying a kayak. What do you do. Every summer Kayak dealers have kayak exhibitions at local parks. You can try out several kayaks in one day. Bring a dry bag and fill it with five gallons of water and put it in the kayak to simulate a load. You can bring two bags and disburse the weight evenly. This way you will have better knowledge of what the real capacity of the kayak is. You can see how the kayaks react to your weight and what you plan to carry. Learn about Kayak design. Do you know what is a Greenland, fish form or Swede hull and what are the advantages? What is rocker? Do you understand that tracking is 80% paddling and 20% kayak design? How about paddle design. What is weather cock, Pitch polling, and broaching. How do different kayak designs deal with these issues. Learn and make a informed choice on your next kayak purchase because there are plenty of people who will take your money for something you will struggle to use for your intended purpose.
  11. How your kayak reacts to a wave has a bunch to do with what kind of hull you have and how you handle you kayak. I have a Greenland hull on my Tarpon 160. Good for rough sea conditions but not the first choice I would make for a surf kayak. Shorter kayaks turn faster and are better choices for the quick reactions you need to make in the surf. I think a Malibu X-factor or a Ocean Kayak drifter would be a good choice because they are short and have good rocker and turn fast. They also have a high caring capacity for all the fat guys I see on the beach fishing . Skill and the ability to read the surf comes with time. If you want to learn how to fish the surf in a kayak then you should visit a forum that is dedicated to that purpose. There are plenty of kayak fishing sites on the web. Most of these sites recommend not going out in more than three foot surf and paddling backwards when returning to the beach. You can not avoid what you can not see. You go out in five foot surf and expect to have a wipeout. RIP I do not go out into the surf because I am old and wore out. I went out into the Chesapeake Bay once in three foot chop and felt like I was in a washing machine. My Hummingbird 595C showed the bottom to look like a saw tooth. Calm seas and fair winds for me thank you very much. May your drags scream
  12. 14/0 mustard opened up a bit on 90 pound nylon coated wire. I might get some 135 pound wire.