Disclaimer: Don't be affraid to screw up, get the schematic out and order new parts if you screw it up, it is worth it. As far as I've tried you can't tap these reels with good pretty results like the avets etc. this method WORKS and doesn't look half bad if you are careful. These pics are horrible, sorry for that but you should get the idea. I've done 6 of these and this is the best way I've found, I'm sure there is a better way but for about $3 you can mag your torium or any reel with clearance. I've tried epoxy and super/gorilla glue, the JB weld has held since installation. I've been stuck on sand when the epoxy gave out and it sucks, so use the JB weld. It also matches the finish on the reel pretty nicely and doesn't look half as bad as these pics make it out to. Be sure to scuff as well. In the past I used a non-ferrus allen headed screw with 2 mags, the ferrus SS bolt I used on the 2 recent ones cranks up the braking quite a bit and you may need to drop it down to 1 mag...FYI.

With this simple addition these reels turn into surf fishing machines, great drags, a loud speaker for a clicker, and nearly bulletproff. The high gear ratio makes checking bait easier especially fishing 4+rods for days at a time, that's 000's less cranks during a trip. The only drawback I can see is the height off the blank. For this reason I fish the TOR20's underspooled by about 1/4". One more tip is to use a thumbdinder for grip, this can apply to any conventional reel. Once wet it provides a huge grip advantage.

I'm sure ya'll will post some improvements and I look forward to it, this set up works excellent as a surf fishing reel for ME.

I use rare earth magnets from Lee Valley, the 1/2 inch work well for the Toriums. I have 2 1/2" magnets, 1.25 inch stainless steel hext bolt for this one, in a 24 fine thread with matching nut and JB weld.

The one pictured is pretty sloppy on the JB weld, I've mad them pretty but would rather not have the "weld" pop and ruin my trip, now they get it pretty good.


Tools are:
1/4 inch metal drill bit
rat tail file to fit
Dremel or similar with grinding bit
art brush for applying JB weld

Start by removing the side plate


Separate the cover and inner plate


Place your magnet inside the plate and get 2 marks for clearence. I place the mag at the bottom for more room in retrieving and thumbing line etc. Make sure you are clear of the outter lip of the inner plate or you will rub. In my experience the edge of your hole should be on the outter fringe of the circle left from the mold. This SHOULD provide your clearance.


Next drill out your center on your marks and finish with a rat tail file to size and test your fit, you want a good bit of clearance.


Put your outerplate back on and mark using your inner plate as a template.


Drill out the mark and finish with the rat tail again while the plates are together.

Next scuff the outter plate around your hole as well as the bottom and lowe sides of the nut.

Prepare the JB weld per the instructions and apply with a small brush to the plate. I create a plug for the nut with masking tape and thread it on. This acts as a handle and keeps the threads clean. Place the nut into the epoxy and rotate it slightly and work it to get complete coverage and a good bond. Let it sit 4-8 hours and remove your tape. Test the threads by inserting your "knobby" bolt and checking for full range of adjustment.




Use dremel or similar to scuff the end of the bolt and the end of the magnet as well.

Place a dab of JB weld on the end of the bolt and apply the magnet. If the bolt is ferrus you will be done after you center the magnet and let it sit. If the bolt is non-ferrus then you may need to center the magnet and tape it in place while it dries.

cleaner version of the knobby

goopy version but really STUCK on there...fine by me, I fish...



PM me with any questions and I'll be happy to answer what I can.